@zeitkunst@fribbledom Prusa haven't been all that open-source in truth or spirit for quite some time. Their 'open hardware' claims around the Mini are 100% a lie, and the MK4 is so proprietary that _opening up its extruder_ without a support staffer telling you to is a warranty breach.
@Polychrome@efi@ben@bunni I figured they would, but I'm curious exactly how they plan to detect and block it. Parallel importing is _generally_ a legal grey area, and kind of hard to track, which is why everyone does it.
@Polychrome@efi@ben@bunni Wouldn't this just lead to a huge rise in parallel importing? "Sure, these GPUs are for sale to New Zealand. Yep, growing economy, lots of AI and gamers there, we definitely need 10 million GPUs a year for a population of 5 million...."
As a fan of #Gridfinity, I found this #OpenSCAD tool both really useful and really convenient. I've made a lot of different bins with it, and can confirm it works well.
I've been investigating (slowly, with a lot of help from @jookia and @amd ) a #DIY#CNC build. In the process, I have learned a lot of things, and felt like sharing some of what I've learned.
1. Stepper motors (closed or open loop) never hit their holding torque at _any_ rotation. 2. Servos have less peak torque, but hold it at _any_ rotation speed they're rated for.
Conclusion for me: servos and gearing are best here.
#Linux Fedi: I'm at an absolute loss. I have an AMD laptop running Arch, which works fantastically well, but occasionally, almost always when watching something on Youtube in Firefox, the frame rate crashes through the floor. We're talking like 2fps even just moving the mouse around.
Only a restart fixes this - restarting the DE doesn't help. I'm on kernel 6.11.5, but anything newer is worse.
@dalias That was a _very_ interesting read. My experience operating a Bowden printer definitely lines up with what is described there, and the solution is really clever.
#Blender3D Fedi: what should I use to remove resin traps (internal closed cavities) from models designed for #Resin3DPrinting ? I know about the 'separate by loose parts' method, but this only works if the cavities aren't attached to the interior, which unfortunately they often are.
I can fix this manually by cutting faces from the inside, but this is tedious. Chitubox Basic can _detect_ cavities (with some false positives), so surely the technology to do this faster exists?
@mia@lanodan@jamie@trashpanda My guess? Nobody wants to pay for it, and the undertaking is too large to be a hobby project. It's the same reason why our slicers are fundamentally 2.5D and will likely stay that way forever.
@FinalOverdrive@mia@kaia This right here is why I basically don't enjoy the company of cishet dudes. Among other things, it is _incredibly_ dull, since everything is either pecking order assertion or trying to jump above. It's dull, it's not worth doing, and it basically makes any other interactions above a very basic level impossible. Waste of time in general.
So, one unexpected Saturday delivery later, we have _another_ tuning thread! This time, it's HIPS filament from Gizmo Dorks.
I feel that HIPS is a criminally underrated filament for printing with, as it has all the properties of ABS (high impact resistance despite low density, slight flex, temperature resistance, easy post-processing, etc), but _un_like ABS, it also:
- Dissolves in limonene; and - Absorbs virtually _no_ moisture.
@3dprinting These two advantages mean that firstly, you can smooth (and weld) HIPS without having to use acetone (limonene is _much_ nicer to work with), but also that you don't have to worry about dry storage _at all_.
HIPS sees relatively low use in FDM printing - it's mainly used as a soluble support for ABS - but in other places, it is _very_ widely used. For example, if you bought a plastic miniature recently, it was _almost certainly_ made of HIPS.
@3dprinting I've been trying to find a good source for the stuff, and Gizmo Dorks showed up on my radar at around the same time as Tinmorry.
So now, I have to swap _back_ to my CHT nozzle, find my Z-offset _again_, but at least I don't have to dry anything! Let's see how well this HIPS filament performs.
@3dprinting So, packaging. Plastic spool (boo!), but resealable bag (yay!)... except in this case it's mostly pointless.
First extrusion, smell test! It has a _very_ tarmac-y base note, but it's not nearly as pungent as most ABSes in my experience. Not nearly as low-odour as, say, Fusion or Paramount3D, but better than Polymaker for sure.
@3dprinting Just to put this filament's lack of use into perspective, there's no 'generic' profile for the XPlus-3 in Orca Slicer for HIPS. This might not _sound_ like much, but there's a generic for _PVA_ in there, of all things!
For fun, Gizmo Dorks advise 230-250C on the nozzle and 110C on the bed. That's basically typical for ABSes, and the main reason I shoot higher is because the layer adhesion bump really does matter. Plus, VzBot folks do it, so it's not just me saying that.