Notices by purple 👊✊💨 (purple@nya.social), page 6

@shibao@misskey.bubbletea.dev temperatures

@tk@bbs.kawa-kun.com oh of course. i control the "drive mode" by how hard i press on the throttle, and the "infotainment" is all the dumb shits im passing in the wrong lane, because michigan.

@tk@bbs.kawa-kun.com depends more on how fast you drink them..

@tk@bbs.kawa-kun.com my current whip has auto up and auto down power windows. it's still a stick shift, tho. which means the power windows are straight baller imo

how many times do u have to say bloody mary before she shows up?

@shibao@misskey.bubbletea.dev mornin'

installing factorio space age from their website involves a lot of clicking on third party websites :(

anyway. it's installed. but i havent installed breakfast in me yet.

bappy pawbs

ah balls, i crashed kdesktop again.

you are lost in a twisted maze of plain-text configuration directives, each passageway hauntingly similar to every other. you are likely to be eaten by a string terminator.

i don't know who needs to hear this but it's probably you
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0gDv8VWfnY
DUCKTALES: The Moon Theme - Contraband VGM ダックテイル

@silverwizard@convenient.email hell yeah

@silverwizard@convenient.email last week aws assigned me an instance with an ip ending in .0

i was thoroughly fucked with. (even though this is fine and doesn't break any specs)

@tk@bbs.kawa-kun.com oh just use your standard heavy cream and sugar mixture to make a glaze. some of the spicier icom units might need a dash of vanilla to help tame the heat.

what's the most straightforward way to automate clicking a link sent via email once a month?

@shibao@misskey.bubbletea.dev both of mine are < 400lbs and are a bear to get back up, i can't imagine anything heavier tbh

this websocket could have been a udp datagram

@tk@bbs.kawa-kun.com @Ariri@missiletest.site @Rocc@misskey.bubbletea.dev @shibao@misskey.bubbletea.dev the perfect 2-door already exists. comes with a 2.4L big block inline-4 or a meaty 3.2L V6. and a stick.

@SuperDicq@minidisc.tokyo hell yeah, glad you have an awesome shop! my suspension shop was a life saver back when i was deep in it.

regarding toe on the rear, it truly depends on the exact source of discomfort. if you can't get it to rotate ("four wheel slide") and can't stiffen up the rear to the point the inside wheel starts to lose contact, then yes toe-out on the rear will help loosen up the rear how you want it to. if you can get the inside tire to lift or break traction, then yes toe-in is the way to go.

as for toe up front, i haven't come to any conclusions, i've experimented both ways and know i prefer a stock-like toe-in, but i can really appreciate how snappy toe-out is. it wants to turn. i find it hard to recommend for anything that will be daily driven, that's for sure, your muscles will wear out from constantly forcing it to go straight. also the more out-of-spec it is, it seems is exponential to how much wear shows on the tires. 5,000 miles of 1.5 extra degrees of toe-out looked like 15,000 miles of wear on the tread gauge.

i find with FWD that i need to be more conscious of how the suspension is loaded and where each tire is at on the imaginary available grip graph. we're (in general) fastest when we can early-apex to get back on the power sooner & carry as much momentum as possible. so we want to be four wheel sliding. iirc, ford was the first to have an ecu that would automatically drag the brake on the inside tire to get it to lose grip. cool stuff.

i also find on FWD that i run out of brakes very quickly, even with upgrades, so be careful to not cook your brakes. higher spec pads up front might be required to get through a course, but those are cheaper than a full tank of gas.

have fun o/

@SuperDicq@minidisc.tokyo yes get new rims. also swap the suspension for something lighter. the name of the game is reducing unsprung mass. anything from the control arms to the tire is unsprung mass, and changes here make the most impact on handling and in particular lighter wheels == more power under the curve.

as for settings, keep it stock. even ride height. for normal driving, not autocross, it's fine.

for drag racing, you want more caster.
for autocross you want more outside toe on the rear, and to drop the ride height.

since i'm not sure what you're in, i'm going to assume it's using a McPhearson suspension which isn't going to offer much of any sort of adjustment anyway, so, keep your expectations low.

also i've had shops refuse to set custom settings on stock suspensions. not sure what's up with that but i didn't argue and found another shop...

@kaia@brotka.st rookie mistake