Conversation

Notices

1. Embed this notice
   SuperDicq (superdicq@minidisc.tokyo)'s status on Thursday, 03-Oct-2024 02:19:59 JST SuperDicq

   Just put the new nugget on the lift to inspect it for any potential issues and I found nothing. Even looked like one of the previous owners did rust prevention on it. Happy surprises.
   
   All this shitbox really needs is some new tires and an alignment. Every other issue is just cosmetic.

   • Haelwenn /элвэн/ :triskell: likes this.
   • Embed this notice
     garfieldairlines.net (garfieldairlines@fedi.garfieldairlines.net)'s status on Thursday, 03-Oct-2024 02:54:18 JST garfieldairlines.net

     in reply to

     @SuperDicq@minidisc.tokyo man you call that a shitbox, I drive in a Toyota Yaris…
     (sorry for your cute yellow car, I liked it)

     Haelwenn /элвэн/ :triskell: likes this.
   • Embed this notice
     Haelwenn /элвэн/ :triskell: (lanodan@queer.hacktivis.me)'s status on Thursday, 03-Oct-2024 02:54:54 JST Haelwenn /элвэн/ :triskell:

     in reply to
     @SuperDicq Heh somehow the rear kind of looks like it has a face
   • Embed this notice
     SuperDicq (superdicq@minidisc.tokyo)'s status on Thursday, 03-Oct-2024 21:51:07 JST SuperDicq

     in reply to

     Got an alignment appointment on monday. I've never aligned a FWD shitbox before.
     
     I know on RWD you always put some toe-in on the front tires because the pushing of the rear wheels pushes the front wheels straight.
     
     Is the opposite true for FWD cars? Should I give the front tires toe-out?

     Haelwenn /элвэн/ :triskell: likes this.
   • Embed this notice
     SuperDicq (superdicq@minidisc.tokyo)'s status on Thursday, 03-Oct-2024 21:59:24 JST SuperDicq

     in reply to

     Also I'm getting Toyo TR1 tires, always had those on my MX5, I feel like you can't go wrong with those.
     
     The alignment is absolute crap right now as the car heavily pulls to the right to the point that my arm actually gets cramps keeping it straight on the highway.
     
     For my alignment I'm thinking the following settings:
     Front camber: -1 degrees
     Front toe: -.25 degrees
     Front caster: 3 degrees
     
     Rear camber: -1 degrees
     Rear toe: .25 degrees
     Caster is non adjustable I think.
     
     I just made this up based on what my gut says would feel good on this car :02shrug: Anyone who knows anything about FWD suspension tuning have an opinion?

   • Embed this notice
     SuperDicq (superdicq@minidisc.tokyo)'s status on Thursday, 03-Oct-2024 22:03:14 JST SuperDicq

     in reply to

     And no, I'm not getting new rims. I'm gonna rock the steelies because I don't wanna spend more than necesary on this car.

     Haelwenn /элвэн/ :triskell: likes this.
   • Embed this notice
     SuperDicq (superdicq@minidisc.tokyo)'s status on Thursday, 03-Oct-2024 23:29:37 JST SuperDicq

     in reply to

     • purple 👊✊💨

     @purple@nya.social yes get new rimsNo, I'm not spending any more money than absolutely necessary on this car. I'm just driving this car until my MX5 is fixed and this is where my money will go to.
     also swap the suspension for something lighter.Hell no, that costs insane amounts of money. The stock suspension on this car is actually really good, for the Ford Puma they took the Ford Fiesta platform and already made the suspension tighter from factory.
     as for settings, keep it stock. even ride height. for normal driving, I like to have my tight autocross type handling. This is a daily driver, but will probably also be taken to the track from time to time.
     for autocross you want more outside toe on the rearYou sure? I thought FWD cars were supposed to have outside toe on the front and inside toe on the rear? The opposite of RWD car?
     and to drop the ride height.I wish, but as I said, not gonna spend anything.
     i'm going to assume it's using a McPhearson suspensionYes, that is true but there is adjustment on the toe and camber but probably not on the caster now that I think about it.
     also i've had shops refuse to set custom settings on stock suspensions.Not an issue here, I know my shop.

   • Embed this notice
     purple 👊✊💨 (purple@nya.social)'s status on Thursday, 03-Oct-2024 23:29:41 JST purple 👊✊💨

     in reply to

     @SuperDicq@minidisc.tokyo yes get new rims. also swap the suspension for something lighter. the name of the game is reducing unsprung mass. anything from the control arms to the tire is unsprung mass, and changes here make the most impact on handling and in particular lighter wheels == more power under the curve.
     
     as for settings, keep it stock. even ride height. for normal driving, not autocross, it's fine.
     
     for drag racing, you want more caster.
     for autocross you want more outside toe on the rear, and to drop the ride height.
     
     since i'm not sure what you're in, i'm going to assume it's using a McPhearson suspension which isn't going to offer much of any sort of adjustment anyway, so, keep your expectations low.
     
     also i've had shops refuse to set custom settings on stock suspensions. not sure what's up with that but i didn't argue and found another shop...

   • Embed this notice
     purple 👊✊💨 (purple@nya.social)'s status on Friday, 04-Oct-2024 01:42:48 JST purple 👊✊💨

     in reply to

     @SuperDicq@minidisc.tokyo hell yeah, glad you have an awesome shop! my suspension shop was a life saver back when i was deep in it.
     
     regarding toe on the rear, it truly depends on the exact source of discomfort. if you can't get it to rotate ("four wheel slide") and can't stiffen up the rear to the point the inside wheel starts to lose contact, then yes toe-out on the rear will help loosen up the rear how you want it to. if you can get the inside tire to lift or break traction, then yes toe-in is the way to go.
     
     as for toe up front, i haven't come to any conclusions, i've experimented both ways and know i prefer a stock-like toe-in, but i can really appreciate how snappy toe-out is. it wants to turn. i find it hard to recommend for anything that will be daily driven, that's for sure, your muscles will wear out from constantly forcing it to go straight. also the more out-of-spec it is, it seems is exponential to how much wear shows on the tires. 5,000 miles of 1.5 extra degrees of toe-out looked like 15,000 miles of wear on the tread gauge.
     
     i find with FWD that i need to be more conscious of how the suspension is loaded and where each tire is at on the imaginary available grip graph. we're (in general) fastest when we can early-apex to get back on the power sooner & carry as much momentum as possible. so we want to be four wheel sliding. iirc, ford was the first to have an ecu that would automatically drag the brake on the inside tire to get it to lose grip. cool stuff.
     
     i also find on FWD that i run out of brakes very quickly, even with upgrades, so be careful to not cook your brakes. higher spec pads up front might be required to get through a course, but those are cheaper than a full tank of gas.
     
     have fun o/

   • Embed this notice
     SuperDicq (superdicq@minidisc.tokyo)'s status on Friday, 04-Oct-2024 01:43:37 JST SuperDicq

     in reply to

     • purple 👊✊💨

     @purple@nya.socialiirc, ford was the first to have an ecu that would automatically drag the brake on the inside tire to get it to lose grip.I doubt my Ford Puma has this feature as it doesn't even have ABS.
     higher spec pads up front might be required to get through a courseYeah, when the brake pads need replacing I will definitely put in some better-than-stock spec pads in there, I do that on all my cars. Brakes is such a stupid thing to cheap out on tbh