Embed Notice

@SuperDicq@minidisc.tokyo hell yeah, glad you have an awesome shop! my suspension shop was a life saver back when i was deep in it.

regarding toe on the rear, it truly depends on the exact source of discomfort. if you can't get it to rotate ("four wheel slide") and can't stiffen up the rear to the point the inside wheel starts to lose contact, then yes toe-out on the rear will help loosen up the rear how you want it to. if you can get the inside tire to lift or break traction, then yes toe-in is the way to go.

as for toe up front, i haven't come to any conclusions, i've experimented both ways and know i prefer a stock-like toe-in, but i can really appreciate how snappy toe-out is. it wants to turn. i find it hard to recommend for anything that will be daily driven, that's for sure, your muscles will wear out from constantly forcing it to go straight. also the more out-of-spec it is, it seems is exponential to how much wear shows on the tires. 5,000 miles of 1.5 extra degrees of toe-out looked like 15,000 miles of wear on the tread gauge.

i find with FWD that i need to be more conscious of how the suspension is loaded and where each tire is at on the imaginary available grip graph. we're (in general) fastest when we can early-apex to get back on the power sooner & carry as much momentum as possible. so we want to be four wheel sliding. iirc, ford was the first to have an ecu that would automatically drag the brake on the inside tire to get it to lose grip. cool stuff.

i also find on FWD that i run out of brakes very quickly, even with upgrades, so be careful to not cook your brakes. higher spec pads up front might be required to get through a course, but those are cheaper than a full tank of gas.

have fun o/