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@richlitt
The main and probably easiest to transition to would be #Ghost. You can move to ghost.org, or another 3rd-party host, or host it yourself!

Migration guide: https://ghost.org/docs/migration/substack/

Official site: https://ghost.org/

There is also #Buttondown which I haven't checked out myself yet, but it's the next most popular alternative.

Migration guide: https://www.wired.com/story/how-to-migrate-newsletter-substack-to-buttondown/

Official site: https://buttondown.email/

If you're not too concerned with the monetization aspects and into something clean & barebones, you could also consider #writeFreely (I use this myself).

https://writefreely.org/

#Wordpress is also an option, but I'm hesitant to recommend it, as #wp is a whole thing in it's own.

I hope that helps!