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Next, I tried to do some rendering myself! This would give me a lot of control of the result – I could make subway lines more visible, for example!

Unfortunately, this seems to requires the following tower of technologies:

1. Download the raw OSM data.
2. Import it into a Postgres database using osm2pgsql.
3. Compile the "Carto" style using CartoCSS preprocessor (which seems unmaintained 😱).
4. Run the mapnik renderer.

I had trouble fitting all of these pieces together properly, and gave up.