Continuing the pattern drafting for what may become the #CinnamonLinenJacket - I realised I didn't actually need the darts in the front and side pattern piece. I recalled seeing a drafting diagram for a short bolero type jacket at some point with NO body seams at all, and I don't want to go that far... But it did exist! Look at it!
Conversation
Notices
-
Embed this notice
Sini Tuulia (sinituulia@eldritch.cafe)'s status on Tuesday, 31-Dec-2024 04:51:35 JST Sini Tuulia
-
Embed this notice
Sini Tuulia (sinituulia@eldritch.cafe)'s status on Tuesday, 31-Dec-2024 04:51:28 JST Sini Tuulia
@blogdiva I like making 18th century petticoats out of old sheets and such because there's pretty much nothing wasted... But also when they start to go, I can use them to make mock-ups for other sewing!
valhalla likes this. -
Embed this notice
your auntifa liza 🇵🇷 🦛 🦦 (blogdiva@mastodon.social)'s status on Tuesday, 31-Dec-2024 04:51:29 JST your auntifa liza 🇵🇷 🦛 🦦
@sinituulia i have about 4 duvets am turning into jumpsuits and skirts. am getting myself organized to literally start new year’s day. most old sheets and duvets are either all cotton or a mix with linen or rayon but in +200 GSM, making them 2-3 times the weight of broadcloth and the perfect fabrics for old school designs. so much of today’s fabrics have so much plastic/polyester in them, they just don’t cut nor drape the same.
-
Embed this notice
Sini Tuulia (sinituulia@eldritch.cafe)'s status on Tuesday, 31-Dec-2024 04:51:29 JST Sini Tuulia
@blogdiva The new beddings of today are not as good as the vintage ones, either! I've lately either been buying cotton batiste (which is always flimsy and sheer and breaks apart fairly easily) or pure linen, linen is just so nice! Costs a lot more, especially when certified organic and/or Okö-Tex, but worth it. A lot of the time other fabrics are just disappointing 😐
-
Embed this notice
Sini Tuulia (sinituulia@eldritch.cafe)'s status on Tuesday, 31-Dec-2024 04:51:30 JST Sini Tuulia
@blogdiva I'm told I also look like my grandmother. 😄
The orange tie is indeed for the petticoat, it's not the correct shape at all for the blouse and jacket but I'm only fitting the top so I don't feel like changing!
The skirt/petticoat is made from a fairly old duvet cover of unknown providence, it's an extremely high quality, dense and heavy cotton, I wouldn't even know what to call it. The whole thing is just pleated onto waistbands. It makes a very good house skirt.And thank you! I've made a billion of these linen shirts or blouses this year, and trying different things. 😄
The back is princess seams, and the only vertical seams there are. I think the shape of the side back is slightly off, and the upper back a bit too long, but I'm willing to mess with it until it's right. 🤔 The fabric is also a flimsy old bedsheet! -
Embed this notice
your auntifa liza 🇵🇷 🦛 🦦 (blogdiva@mastodon.social)'s status on Tuesday, 31-Dec-2024 04:51:31 JST your auntifa liza 🇵🇷 🦛 🦦
1. you look so much like on of my cousins on my mom’s side it’s not even funny.
2. is the orange tie for a petticoat?
3. am loving the skirt. is it a linen broadcloth?
4. your button game is impecable.
5. i see what you mean about the back. my fitting problems are always the boob area. how to you feel about cutting princess seams instead of darts? i reckoned recently the manufactured shirts i feel comfortable in are all princess seam cuts.
-
Embed this notice
Sini Tuulia (sinituulia@eldritch.cafe)'s status on Tuesday, 31-Dec-2024 04:51:32 JST Sini Tuulia
Behold my trials. For the second mock-up this isn't bad, though I obviously borked up the shoulders a bit. But they're a fairly easy thing to fix as long as you're patient. The lapels are pretty okay as is, the collar is a mess... This is the floppiest of toiles but it's not terrible, so I might fix these things and then try to add another layer, for some structure.
(Open image for a gif of the fitting.) -
Embed this notice
Sini Tuulia (sinituulia@eldritch.cafe)'s status on Tuesday, 31-Dec-2024 04:51:33 JST Sini Tuulia
Oh, and. I'm very familiar with drafting patterns and fitting for a shape that very very closely follows the body. There's quite a bit of staring thoughtfully involved when the damn thing is meant to hang open in the front, and on top of blousy full shirts and such, too. Persuading it to lie flat in one spot and gracefully aloft in another is certainly something. For now I'm attempting to fit the arm's eyes and upper back so nicely that everything else sort of falls in place.
-
Embed this notice
Sini Tuulia (sinituulia@eldritch.cafe)'s status on Tuesday, 31-Dec-2024 04:51:34 JST Sini Tuulia
Meanwhile, it's actually taking a bit longer than expected not because of the strange shapes, but because I'm trying to figure out the collar and lapels, and fitting over a blouse with very large sleeves. I want to wear the large sleeves under the jacket, so this is very good, but it does change the shape of the arm's eye a lot!
-
Embed this notice
valhalla (valhalla@social.gl-como.it)'s status on Wednesday, 01-Jan-2025 21:03:29 JST valhalla
@sinituulia @laumapret (I've seen a tutorial on making one yourself¹ with insulation foam that can be pinned into, but my first attempt to make a mannequin of my foot² didn't work that well, I need to try other foams.)
(and of course, I haven't tackled the stand issues yet)
¹ for values of yourself that definitely require another person to wrap you in plaster bandages
² mostly as a small scale test, but it can be useful while making socks and slippers -
Embed this notice
Sini Tuulia (sinituulia@eldritch.cafe)'s status on Wednesday, 01-Jan-2025 21:03:30 JST Sini Tuulia
@laumapret (You can also make them yourself, but it's a horrible hassle and not as good to use if you'd like to pin into it, and sourcing and affixing the stand is also complicated at home.)
-
Embed this notice
Sini Tuulia (sinituulia@eldritch.cafe)'s status on Wednesday, 01-Jan-2025 21:03:31 JST Sini Tuulia
@laumapret Oh it's pretty much impossible to find a dressform that is actually your shape unless you get one of those ones that are made with a 3D model of yourself. 😄 I used to have a basic one, but none of my jackets ever fit it because my torso is *so small* but it was useful for hanging and hemming skirts.
I'm pretty flexible and can use my left hand for precision work also, so I just fit on myself. If it requires enough contortion to disturb the shape, it's a lot of eyeballing, taking it off, pinning and trying it on again!
-
Embed this notice
Lauma Pret 🕸️ (laumapret@toot.lv)'s status on Wednesday, 01-Jan-2025 21:03:32 JST Lauma Pret 🕸️
@sinituulia
Do you have appropriate dressform or you somehow magicaly fix the darts on yourself?
-
Embed this notice