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>need to connect different gauge wires to one another in field
>can't just take wires back home so soldering and hot air are not an option
>take part of the wires/devices that are no longer i use
>realize there are two wires with different gauges connected in some way with a shrinkwrap around it
>they probably soldered it and put shrinkwrap over it
>remove shrinkwrap
>not soldered, just twisted
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@hj It you twist it tight enough, it kind of works (don't mind the melting shrinkwrap).
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@divVerent electric scooter wiring
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@hj Wago?
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@Suiseiseki it was twisted and bent in certain angle so it wouldn't get (easily) disconnected, but not exactly a knot
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@divVerent it's automotive electrics, not house electrics, there has to be some water proofing. There are some plastic connectors but they aren't really waterproof/resistant.
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@hj Twisting wires together and hiding the poor work with a plastic cap is standard US best practice BTW.
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@divVerent low amps. I mean original wires look like microelectronics shit you'd see in a raspberry pi project, but those are meant for LED lights (brake, marker, blinkers), even if all the original lamps run on 60V (powered by same battery as motor. Motor's and battery wires are high amp and are very thicc), i'm replacing those lights (and adding some more) with 12V since it's pain in the fucking ass to find 60V ones.
I'll just do exactly the same thing as manufacturer did. Ideally i'd put some solder-ring shrinkwrap but it needs hot air gun to melt the solder ring and there's no way to get power where scooter's at, and I don't have a portable one. (and there is no way to bring scooter back upstairs, it's quite big)
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@hj Ah, depends on ampage then. Hm... if it does not get hot there, soldering might be an option, but a wire nut-ish connection may not be all that bad given what you write. IIRC screw clamps are most common at high amps - at least that is what my car uses.