@elk Problem solved. Turns out I was in a completely hidden "Zen Mode". I have no idea how I got in and there was no apparent way to get out. Some kind person told me to hit the 'z' key and presto! I'm back to normal.
UX Advice: First time use: TELL ME I"M GOING INTO ZEN MODE!
Also: provide a more obvious way to get out of it (I still don't know how to do it other than 'z'