So what I'd be looking for is closer to one of these Digilent boards (pictured), modernized (eg. with a screen for a modern equivalent of VGA out, maybe HDMI output connected to transceivers) but still super hackable.
What I think doesn't work at all is a super tiny tightly integrated stamp-like board (like the ICEbreaker-bitsy, pictured) or even worse, a fomu (pictured).
The ULX3S comes very close, but it has too much stuff around powersaving and the ESP32, and is missing an LCD.