And in a modernizing world, it's also indicative of an effort to cook Chinese food in a way that's done without shortcuts.
Like they will absolutely cook the soup for 12 hours, not 20 min; they will make the fishballs from a whole fish themselves (sometimes even from fish they caught), not buy it from a factory. A lot of the 'decline' in food quality in those parts of the world come from the industrialization of parts of our food chain, too. These people use the term to signal 'craft'