Nothing evident in coreutils git log, so I git bisect.
But I have to kill a dragon named gnulib on the way to the bad commit. `make` will not build coreutils without re-bootstrapping gnulib at times. I find the bad commit.
https://github.com/coreutils/coreutils/commit/193449b17334649a2abcbca589544d858fca92a1
But it has nothing to do with whatsoever. ripgrep tells me nothing should use `env` in any significant way.