Soon-Tzu Speechley wrote this in 2020, ‘what if we write about American food the way they write about us’
“In a nation torn by racial conflict, one unlikely food unites. To those accustomed to chopsticks, the greasy parcel known as a ‘burger,’ a sort of split bao, is crude and messy. Yet it encapsulates a nation’s violent past.”
Sometimes I feel if I’m being very extreme about the way I push back on certain tropes on food and culture here, but I also think I need to do even more of it.