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@Gargron The Full Site Editor is a big switch that WP has been making for years, but got real intense recently.

I see it as a system for building extremely dynamic sites without code, with a corresponding increase in complexity for authors and developers. CSS and layouts have become way more complicated, and WP has become more complex to match.

It’s a shame so many are alienated from it.

I suggest using the latest default theme (Twenty Twenty-Five) and learning the system.