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1. customize your toolbar and add the "search" box if it isn't already there¹
2. go to https://marginalia-search.com
3. a green plus will appear on the magnifying glass in the search box. click that
4. click the icon in the dropdown that also has a green plus
5. go to settings→search and set it as the default search engine. and give it a keyword if you like

¹ no, really, this seems to be the only way to make this go. sheesh