Ready for another round of behind the scenes in Maria's jewelry shop? Here goes.
I'm making the silver version of this.
Ready for another round of behind the scenes in Maria's jewelry shop? Here goes.
I'm making the silver version of this.
This didn't work out very well today because the wire stretched and moved so not all the lines are straight. 🙄 The solution was to create separate tape and wire bundles for each piece. There's more texturing to be done so I'll just used the messed up pieces anyway. 🤷🏻♀️
The next part is weird because I've come up with a technique that doesn't work perfectly every time. The goal is to get a line embossed across the middle of each pick-shaped piece. I do that by taping the pieces onto a bit of masking tape with a piece of copper wire to make the line. I then run the whole thing through my rolling mill.
Even though the metal is only 26 gauge, the hammering will harden it so it's not likely to bend. The resulting earrings will also be a lot lighter than if I made them with 24 or 22 gauge metal. And yes: they cost less to produce so I can sell them for less.
The next step is texturing. I'll do the washers first because they're easier. I use a special texturing hammer to put lines all around all 12 washers. Each one must be done separately. The trick is to keep rotating the washers as I hammer and to not hit my fingers. If they get warped from texturing, I can use a nylon hammer to flatten them back out.
Here's the washers (bottom) and scrap (top). The "donut hole" pieces will make identically sized silver balls for some other pieces of jewelry.
Next, I use a centering plug to find the center of the first hole on the punched sheet. I tighten down the tool, insert the punch, and hammer it through the metal. The result is the washer I need for the earrings. Again, I have to do this 12 times.
That's one piece for the earrings. The other piece is the washers. I use my disc cutter for that. First, I mark up a strip of metal so I know where to punch out the center of the disc. I line up the + in the hole that will make the center and put a 26 ga disc on the other side of the tool to balance it. I prep the punch with some Cut Lube, insert the punch, and then hammer it home with my stamping hammer.
Next job is cutting out the pieces. While some silversmiths like to use a jeweler's saw, I don't. I use Joyce Chen kitchen shears. (Really!) I save every scrap that's cut out and use it form something else, if possible. This silver scrap will make silver accent balls and an ear cuff.
Next, I use a fine point sharpie to trace the shape I want onto the metal, keeping the shapes as close together as I can to reduce waste. I need two shapes for each earring, so I must have an even number of shapes. Today, I'll make 6 pairs so I need 12 shapes. And yes, I call this shape "pick" because it reminds me of a guitar pick.
I start by by using my metal shear, which looks like a paper cutter, to cut off strips that are easier to work with. For these earrings, each strip needs to be just over 1 inch wide. I cut the piece in the second photo from a smaller sheet of silver; my goal is to use the smallest pieces I have first to reduce waste.
I start with 26 gauge solid sterling silver sheet, which I buy in 6x12 inch pieces. They come packed in a flat box, separated with tissue paper. Each sheet costs about $250, so this box contains $500 worth of sterling silver.
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