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@mattblaze @SteveBellovin There are some tiny "continue application online" links at the bottom of the page text, which finally lead to this page
https://apply-for-an-eta.homeoffice.gov.uk/apply/electronic-travel-authorisation/how-to-apply
(Edit: it's clear what is going on here technically. They want the applicant to use the app so they can check that the applicant's issued passport is an ePassport. That lowers the risk of the applicant arriving at Heathrow and then being detained and returned to the originating airport. So the escape route to the web application is very poorly marked.)
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